What is British food?

Earlier this week, I was invited to the Observer offices along with two fellow bloggers (Chris and Helen) to talk with Jay Rayner about what we thought "British" food was. We all had some interesting thoughts on the subject and the 5 minute film above was the product of our chats.

I wasn't really happy with my typical British 3 course meal and with a bit more thought, I would opt for the following:

Starter: Potted rabbit, toast and chutney
Main: Belly Pork, tonnes of crackling, apple sauce and mash
Dessert: Pear and apple crumble, tonnes of custard.

What do you reckon British food is and what would your ideal British 3 course meal be?

Flat White - A rather flat coffee

I used to be a tea man. Tea was my go to hot drink, the drink that would keep me comfort in the winter, and the drink that would gradually escort me out of my post-binge hangover. I'm Chinese, we drink a lot of Chinese tea. As a student, it was all about the tea. We couldn't get enough, forfeits were based around making tea, going to the supermarket to buy tea bags and on the odd occasions, milk to go with our tea. And then one day, I discovered coffee.

I still love my tea, but coffee just takes it to the next level. These days, I struggle to function without my daily dose of caffeine and will travel further than my nearest supermarket to indulge in a good cup. Over the last six months, I have begin to appreciate the intricacies of the coffee bean and slowly ticking off some of the better cups across London. One afternoon, I managed to make it to the highly lauded New Zealand outfit in the heart of Soho, Flat White.

A flat white is another variation of your standard coffee drink. With a strong espresso base, it is topped up with a strong textured head of milk, often displayed with "coffee art", which highlights the required texture of the drink. So, I clearly had to order a flat white at Flat White.



There has been talk of a certain arrogance of the staff at this establishment, but I can honestly say I never saw any of that in my brief visit. Those behind the till and coffee machine were perfectly amenable whilst tending to their string of customers. The coffee certainly looked the part, beautifully textured head, excellent "leaf" pattern milk art...and then I took a sip.

Unfortunately I felt rather let down. The flat white at Flat White tasted flat. I vowed that I would never try a flat white in Starbucks but this was so milky and had so little discernible flavour of coffee that I might as well have been in Starbucks. Disappointing, although I hear that their sister outlet, Milk Bar round the corner is better. I know where I will be heading next time.

Flat White - 17 Berwick Street, Soho W1F 0PT

The anti-cupcake at Beas of Bloomsbury

It's buzzing. As I sit in the corner of Bea's, a steady flow of customers stream in and out of the cold and rain looking for their caffeine or sugar hit. Squirreled away into the corner, needing both sugar and coffee cravings sated, I order a coffee and a cupcake and watch.

Bea's is not your ordinary cake shop. Serving A-grade coffee using Square Mile beans, I can see how locals would gravitate towards James and his coffee machine for their daily caffeine hit. For just £2 for a cappuccino, you receive an excellent coffee, lovingly prepared and infinitely better than any milky sludge that Starbucks round the corner will serve you, with some change to boot.



I hate to say it, but coffee is merely a distraction in Beas. The minute you walk through the door, you pass an elaborate display in the window and are immediately confronted with some of the most delicious cupcakes you are likely to lay your eyes on. The cupcakes themselves are available in an array of flavours, which change every day. On my visit I opted for a Baileys and chocolate cupcake, with the use of flavoured buttercream instead of icing leading Bea to label it an "anti" cupcake, not one for the traditionalists. Personally, I thought they were bloody lovely, give me cream over icing any day of the week, viva la revolution!



I even managed to meet the eponymous Bea, who is a lovely bundle of energy. Having emerged from the pastry kitchens of Nobu, she is growing her own empire one shop at a time. Hopefully look out for a new venture out East in the very near future. After my afternoon in there, I am starting to believe that man can live on cupcakes and coffee alone.

*HOLD THE PRESS* - I have just been informed that Bea now has a new savoury chef. He is 6 foot 3 and a Kiwi. And apparently he makes a good lunch, another reason to go!

Beas of Bloomsbury - 44 Theobald's Road WC1X 8NW

Back to the Future: Bellevue Rendez-Vous

In homage to my late late Le Cassoulet post, I thought I would take this opportunity to go back to the future and catch up on another meal worthy of a write up. The date is some time in early November 2009, the place, Bellevue Rendez-Vous.

I have lots of sisters. In fact, I have them coming out of my ears and as they get older, birthdays appear to be getting more and more expensive. I swear their more exuberant requests for birthday presents are not proportional to my rather gradual increase in salary. Thankfully, my little sister is probably the least fussy of them all. I even remember fondly how one year, all she wanted for her birthday meal was not a slap up five course meal but a local takeaway kebab.

This year saw us head to Clapham and the aforementioned Bellevue Rendez-Vous. Located just round the corner from Chez Bruce and Brinkley's, it has some seriously fierce competition. Serving modern French food, it's not really reinventing the wheel, but it sticks to the basics and executes on these well with the occasional artistic squiggles and splodges. There are no airs and graces, with friendly service and informal decor. People drifted in and out with their obligatory pushchairs in tow (this area isn't known as the pram belt for nothing).




The starter of smoked duck on a celeriac remoulade was incredibly moreish, but that could have had something to do with the fact that it was a minuscule portion. I simply wanted more. My mothers wood pigeon was perfectly executed, with a reassuring pink tinge to the flesh, still tender and juicy. The tiny stack of pear chutney was the perfect accompaniment, although I am unsure as to what the dark streak down the middle of the plate was nor why it was there.



The mains were equally well executed. My roast venison had a slightly more rustic approach with everything slathered neatly onto my plate. Again, perfectly cooked meat and a really wholesome meal. Even though the presentation appeared more straightforward, the kitchen was still showing some invention with the introduction of the artichoke mash which was pleasant, if a little unusual. The confit leg of duck was also highly commendable. Although not my dish, the three portions ordered by separate members of my family meant that there was ample amounts of duck for me to scavenge. Crisp skin and moist flesh with bags of flavour, this also comes highly recommended.



Fit to burst, desserts were almost overlooked but you don't become a Teh without culturing a fearsome ability to eat, so a few were ordered and shared out amongst us. The poached pear was a triumph, simply poached in red wine, cinnamon and cloves to retain the flavours, gentle to the bite whilst not reduced to mush. This was accompanied by vanilla ice cream and the obligatory unnecessary squiggle.

I know it's been ages since I went, but looking through my photos of this meal brought back fond memories. Although it is clearly competing with some serious competition, it is more than capable of holding its own. What you get is delicious, beautifully presented, well cooked dishes. You can't really ask for more than that, now, can you?

Bellevue Rendez-Vous - 218 Trinity Road, London SW17 7HP

Lex cooked and we ate

Sometimes I despair that I started this blog. I dream of the days that I can go out and enjoy my meal without worrying about whether I have remembered my camera or whether it is fully charged. I remember when I once howled in anguish upon discovering that I had forgotten my camera completely and bugged me throughout a rather excellent meal at Trinity (I rectified it and returned to give it the write up it deserved). Bad times.

I was about to do the unthinkable. Having booked a place at Lex Cooks, you eat, run by a lovely trio of Aussies (although Lex herself has strong Romanian roots ;) ), I was considering leaving the camera at home, grab a bottle of wine and just go and enjoy myself. I just couldn't do it and brought it along anyway.

I think it's testament to what a fun night I had that I ended up with very few photos. The ones I did take were early on and before the hazy fug of the red wine mist descended upon my photography skills. Sharing a table with Carla from Can be bribed with food, Fernandez and Leluu and guests, a really enjoyable evening ensued. Starting with some pesto popcorn, we soon dug into a homely bowl of sweet potato soup with caramelised onions and a herb pesto. Sweet and light, all mopped up with some homemade bread.

The conversation flowed as did the wine, and by the time the main of duck stuffed with amaretti and blood orange salad arrived, the party was in full swing. This is the thing I love about supper clubs. You get to meet new people, you get to chat to the chef and I think the experience is second to none.

By the time the trio of desserts arrived, we were all stuffed although I still somehow managed to stuff my face with about three portions of the walnut and sour cream cake. A great fun night and comes highly recommended!

Lex cooks you eat - Somewhere in NW London.....