Mini Bites: The Ship, Wandsworth

In an effort to catch up and generally seem less lazy, I will be bombarding you with a whole load of mini bites over the next few weeks, and maybe some proper blog posts too.

First up is the notorious Ship in Wandsworth. Stuck round the back of a massive roundabout in Wandsworth (containing a rather strange and rather large spherical structure), in between a bus garage and a McDonalds you walk down Jews Row to be confronted with a frankly odd looking but fabulous pub. With three different bar areas (including the one outside), it's perennial jovial atmosphere make this place an ideal drinking establishment. Drinking by the river has always been one of London's favourite pastimes, and roll up over any weekend with a hint of sun and you will normally be faced with hordes of people ready to party.

Not only is this a great pub for drinking, but it's also a great pub for eating. Spending some time looking through the menu, you can see that a lot of thought has gone into the menu here and I guess it's no surprise that the Ship has become a blogger favourite, hosting events and feeding us to the gills.

I love the Ship and even though it doesn't need my endorsement, I give it a big thumbs up. Under Osh, Phil and the rest of the crew, you couldn't get a nicer bunch of people manning one of the busiest pubs in London. And if you are fed up of drinking in a pub with a roaring fire when it's cold, or enjoying an ice cold beer on the riverside terrace when the sun is out, feast your eyes on some of the quality food they roll out of the kitchen.

Fancy something decadent, a little foie gras perhaps?

Maybe partial to an excellent Sunday roast.

Probably a bit much, let's just settle for a frankly mindblowing burger.

Or maybe some seafood, will scallops do?

Yup, maybe just some old fashioned booze. Dark and Stormy coming up.

The Ship - 41 Jews Row  London SW18 1TB

A night in Paradise, Kensal Green

It's not every day that two beautiful women ask you to join them in Paradise. I couldn't say yes quickly enough. Unfortunately, once I had rolled my tongue back into my mouth and taken a reality check, I looked into this a bit more and realised that "Paradise" was in fact a den of food and drink, and not iniquity. All the same, a night in good company eating and drinking? I can't think of many better things to do on a Friday night.

"Paradise" is located in the wasteland that is Kensal Green, a strange Bermuda Triangle for transport. Recalling my frankly horrendous journey home from the nearby Dock Kitchen in the summer, I really wasn't looking forward to the impending journey later in the evening, but a gin and tonic at the rapidly filling bar area was bound to offset my travel woes. It did.

I was shortly joined by my companions for the evening (the aforementioned beautiful women, and a few other guys) and we sat, drank and chatted, the precursor to most enjoyable evenings. Mood lightened and we were ready for food. Led to the back of the building, we entered a spacious room filled with other diners, and other quirky knick knacks (birdcages, animal heads and other paraphernalia) and sat down. The menu itself is pretty par for the course for your everyday London gastro pub, although it certainly read well and started to make my mouth water. I wanted a bit of everything.



Luckily there were 5 of us and we did end up having a bit of quite a lot. To start, I opted for a fowl terrine, consisting of nuggets of chicken, duck and pheasant. I was surprised at being able to distinguish each individual bird, and with a really rather nice and tart cranberry relish, I managed to polish the lot off with minor assistance. In exchange, I snaffled tasters of scallops and soup, all excellently executed, although I was quietly pleased that my favourite dish was the dish sitting in front of me.



After the terrine, I was really looking forward to my main of smoked haddock, egg and leeks, but felt saddened by all the great looking dishes being delivered around me. A whole butternut squash filled with lentils would normally turn my stomach, but the lentils had been cooked so that bite remained, and whatever liquor it had been cooked in had imparted a quite delicious flavour. The duck was well, it was just wonderful. Generous portions of tender duck and perfectly crisped up skin. I suffered massive food envy. That's not to say that mine wasn't enjoyable, it's just everyone else's choices were so good.



Desserts were a complete dud note, so the less said about them the better, but it certainly didn't put a dampener on the evening. With a name like Paradise, it certainly has a lot to live up to, but thankfully it could mostly justify those claims with a solid display from the kitchen. It seemed the party was just beginning as we left as the clock struck twelve, having to wade through the revellers in the front bar, but I was very satisfied. In my old(er) age, I favour parties of the dinner kind and spending a fun evening with friends was a pretty perfect Friday night for me. Was it Paradise? Not quite, but it's heading in the right direction.

Paradise by way of Kensal Green - 19 Kilburn Lane, Kensal Green, London, W10 4AE

Flickr Photoset here.

The Sportsman, Seasalter: A day out at the seaside

Part of my epic week off of eating included a long awaited visit to Seasalter and a lunchtime session at the Sportsman. After having witnessed my friends one by one making the journey to the coast, and having missed out on a visit on more than one occasion, I was desperate to get there. And get there I did.

With my sister at the helm, we bombed our way down to the Kent coastline in my mums car, keen not to suffer the same debacle as we had at Purnell's the previous day. We were clearly too keen as we rolled into the car park nearly an hour before they opened, and walked around in the November morning for a bit instead. This clearly didn't last long as the sea breeze and overcast weather engulfed us, so we entrenched ourselves in the warmth of the car until the front doors opened.

Joined by Matt and Andy, we waited patiently, and at 12 o'clock, on the dot, we were welcomed in and sat in front of the roaring fire with a pint of red ale. No sooner had we supped a few sips, and then the food started to roll out of the kitchen, with most of the ingredients all extremely local. We were in for a long and exciting lunchtime...

Pickled Herring and Pork Crackling

Yep, I ate herring. And you know it wasn't so bad. Together with the sweet relish, crème fraiche and soda bread that it was on; I managed to eat it, which is praise alone for herring. The pork crackling was supreme, not overly salty and not overly break-your-teeth hard. Served with apple and mustard dip, perfect to get your taste buds tingling and your appetite flowing.

Oysters - Apple foam and ham, Angels on horseback

Of all of the fruits of the sea, it is the oyster I have feared the most in the past, but if they all taste as good as these did, the future is bright. The first lot were raw and very fresh, the only way to eat oysters I am told. With the apple foam hiding the sight of the mollusc, I dove in and the meaty flesh was salty and creamy, tasting very much of the seaside. The fact that it didn't repulse me was a start, and the realisation that I was actually enjoying it was a revelation. The apple foam just gave the mouthful a fruity hint, and the home cured ham added an additional flavour and texture. By the time the next lot turned up, I was fully prepared and ready to go. The "Angels on horseback" were oysters wrapped in bacon and cooked, and were an absolute revelation for me. Served with a dab of parsley sauce, I wolfed mine down; my fear of oysters apparently had evaporated into the ether.

Seafood broth

After a brief interlude of bread (which included some of the best focaccia I have ever tasted), we were brought a shallow bowl with various morsels of seafood placed very deliberately around the bowl. I took a deep breath (as I so often do) and the smell of the fresh seaside was overwhelming. I could have been outside sitting right next to the shore. A broth made from the bones of the turbot we would receive later in the meal was carefully poured over the seafood, producing a light and delicious soup.

Slip sole with seaweed butter

Next, more seafood, but this time in the form of a delicate slip sole, cooked perfectly and doused in seaweed butter. The flesh needed minimum prising away from the bones, and the slightly irony seaweed butter lifted the fish. Perfectly simple, perfectly executed, unbelievably tasty.

Autumn Salmagundi

Who would have thought that a purely vegetarian dish would be my favourite? Originating from the 17th century, it is essentially a salad made with whatever you can lay your hands on. This version uses up a selection of autumn vegetables, all cooked in different ways, some raw, some boiled, some fried. The poached yolk at the bottom was the icing on the cake, a fantastic dish, hard to describe, one that just needs to be tasted.

Braised Turbot with Crab

After a meaty interlude of the Sportsmans own ham, we moved on to our last fish dish, a perfectly cooked piece of turbot sitting on greens in a bisque sauce and topped with delicate flakes of white crab. This dish just emphasised why turbot is considered the king of the sea, the generous steak so meaty and packed with flavour.

Lamb

The next and last savoury course was a symphony of lamb. First, we had slivers of bread crumbed lamb breast brought out with a slightly overly sweet mint sauce, not really to my taste. However, the trio of lamb that followed was simply stunning. Three different cuts, once again beautifully cooked, served in simple gravy. Just like all the dishes that preceded this one, uncomplicated, well cooked, letting the flavours of the food talk for themselves.

Blackcurrant Lollipop and Cake Milk

So concluded the savoury courses, and at this stage we were severely flagging. Stuffed to the gills full of excellent food, we were reinvigorated by the arrival of the blackcurrant popsicles dipped in cake milk. The popsicles could have done with packing more flavour, but the cake milk was a revelation, tasting as if someone had chucked a cake into a blender, added milk and juiced it.

Iced cream cheese and pear

Another revelation and one of my favourite dished of the day. Ice cream made from cream cheese mixed together with a smooth pear puree, and added crushed biscuits to add texture. Such a wonderful combination and a wholly new for me. I must have been up to about a 3rd wind by now and powered through.

By now, we were totally beat and even with the big finale of assorted desserts being absolutely fantastic, we threw in the towel (after we had a taste of all of them first, of course). We were first in at 12 and almost the last lot out at 4pm. 4 hours of non stop eating; I have never felt so full yet so happy. It may not be in London, but is a mere train ride away (or car journey if you're lucky enough to know someone who is willing to drive you) and will serve you some of the best food you will taste. The tasting menu at a mere £55 is a bargain and although they only serve it during the week, I heartily recommend you take a day off and enjoy a day at the seaside. You won't you regret it.

The Sportsman - Faversham Road, Seasalter, Whitstable, Kent CT5 4BP

The Warrington, Maida Vale

Gordon Ramsays empire has been growing at an astounding rate of late. Amidst rumours of financial issues and chefs leaving to do their own thing, Ramsay has still managed to build a growing international empire. One area in which Ramsay has expanded into is the “gastropub” movement, with investments in the Narrow (Limehouse), the Devonshire (Chiswick) and the Warrington (Maida Vale). Asked to go along by their PR and give a “British Fortnight menu” at the Warrington a whirl, I gladly obliged and dragged my sister along to see what it was all about.

The Warrington is located in leafy Maida Vale, quiet and surrounded with the aura of the suburbs. The pub itself is incredibly grand with high ceilings and ornate fixtures, quite “busy” but ultimately quite aesthetically pleasing. Upstairs is where the somewhat more demure restaurant is located and dominated by browns and beiges, boring some might say, but I rather liked it. On arrival, it turned out that a fellow blogger in Essex Eating was there with his other half, so we joined tables and put the entire menu through its paces.

Mushrooms on toast with a poached egg - Whilst we were perusing the menu to see what we wanted, the maitre'd seemed incredibly keen for us to try one of his favourite dishes, simply mushrooms on toast. This tasted exactly how you would expect, earthy on toast drizzled with olive oil. The poached egg was perfectly cooked and oozed it's prize of a golden soak all over what lay beneath them. Nice and simple, but nothing more.

Bowl of clams, parsley and pear cider - I've got a real thing for clams at the moment and this dish was a simple combination of great flavours. My starter of sweet clams were cooked a la marinière, with pear cider being used instead of white wine. Really delicious.

Braxted Hall double lamb chop, samphire and smoked garlic butter - After such a satisfying starter, I wasn't sure that my main could live up to it. Thankfully what was put in front of me didn't let me down. I always like to have a good sniff of my food before I eat it, and the smell of the smoked garlic butter was just divine. The sweet lamb was accented by slightly salty mouthfuls of samphire, and the generous creamy smoked garlic butter brought all the flavours together. The crushed potatoes underneath provided the carbs. A fabulous dish, comprising of a mere 4 main ingredients.

Lemon posset - A straightforward lemon posset packed with zesty lemon, well made. The shortbread on the side was sweet and crumbly and went well together.

The Warrington surprised me. I was expecting overcomplicated dishes trying to be more than pub food, but what I got were simple dishes, well prepared and pared back to let the flavours shine through. Service was excellent, but you can't really judge it too reliably on an invite as they are often focussed on impressing, but with the company I was with, it all led to a thoroughly enjoyable evening. The set menu is due to change every two weeks and is currently focussing on the fruits of Autumn, and at £22 for three courses, it's excellent value. A great experience and I would quite happily return.

The Warrington - 93 Warrington Crescent, Maida Vale, London, W9 1EH

Clerkenwells finest: The Eagle

Before 2010, I could have counted the number of times I have eaten in Clerkenwell on one hand. And on one of those occasions, KFC was involved, enough said really. I never really had any impulse to go and visit it, nor had any reason. If someone came up to me and said that Clerkenwell was the heartland of some great food, I would have guffawed in their face.

And then I started going there, and the diversity of amazing places to eat left my mouth open wide and my tummy rumbling. First came the markets, with Exmouth, Leather Lane and Whitecross street all brimming with excellent spots to feed your appetite. Then there are fantastic pubs such as the Coach & Horses and The Gunmakers and another Clerkenwell favourite in the Clerkenwell Kitchen. Oh, and Moro, can't forget Moro...

But in my eyes, one establishment rises above all others, The Eagle. Revered by many as the original gastropub, and part of the group which runs the Anchor and Hope down in Waterloo and Great Queen Street in Holborn, it changes it's menu every day depending on what produce they can get, as well as a few staples that are on the big chalkboard daily such as their steak sandwich.

I've visited on multiple occasions now and every time I go, something draws me away from that elusive steak sandwich. The menu chalked up behind the bar and over stoves features about seven or eight choices, all as mouthwatering as the next whilst having a small selection of "tapas" which are essentially small sharing plates. I remember the simply cooked chorizo in wine fondly and always look out for it if it's on the menu.

On my last visit, the steak sandwich was once again overlooked as myself and Naomi from the Ginger Gourmand opted for salmon, mackerel and pork. The little smoked salmon "tapas" was a generous portion of excellent smoked salmon with a dollop of creme fraiche and a squeeze of lemon. No airs and graces, just great food. Served with a little basket of bread and olive oil, the preparation got a bit messy as we doused the bits of bread in oil. Messy but worthwhile.

For mains, I had opted for a basque inspired stew using clams and pork. The stew arrived wafting it's deep aroma of paprika and pork in a light red stew. Each chunk of slow cooked pork broke apart with a touch from the fork, and combined with the gelatinous clams which had escaped it's shells, formed a delicious mouthful, full of different flavours and textures. Naomi opted for the mackerel with rhubarb and chill jam. Served whole, the meat had to be carefully prised away from the bones, but the freshness evident as soon as you put it into your mouth. The jam was an interesting addition, but the tartness from the rhubarb and the subtle burn from the chilli complemented the fish well.

The Eagle is a great restaurant. It serves excellent fresh food and it is unsurprising that it is so popular. Inside, it still maintains an aspect of rusticity with mismatched wooden tables and chairs, trying hard to maintain a semblance of being a pub. Although it is an enjoyable place for a drink, there is no real doubt that this is a place to eat, and a very good place at that. One day I will get round to getting my chops round that steak sandwich!

The Eagle - 159 Farringdon Road, London