A taste of Tuscany: Tinello, Pimlico

It's not often I am made aware of a new place to eat by my sister. She's normally more interested in jewellery and bags (it's her job and hobby) but was pleasantly surprised when she suggested an outing to a new Italian restaurant in Pimlico. A joint venture between the founders of Locanda Locatelli and two of their former employees, it focuses on Tuscan flavours and is located a short stroll from Sloane Square.

The restaurant itself is exactly how you would expect a restaurant on the Pimlico Road to be, full of middle aged people who look like they have plenty of money. My sisters fashion radar went into overdrive, spotting Louboutins left right and centre (these are shoes, right?), and a sure-fire sign that the clientele are members of the well to do. The space itself is relatively compact and has the appearance of being rather dark, but most tables have their own lamps hanging overhead, shining enough light on the table to be able to determine what you are eating.

The menu appears to be relatively standard for an Italian restaurant, indicating anti pasti, pasta and secondi, with the addition of a selection of small plates. Between the three of us, we ordered all the small plates and sat back waiting for the feast to begin. It didn’t take long before all the plates came out and what landed on the table really was quite a diverse selection of food. From the creamy and rich chicken livers on crostini, to the fishy and crisp cuttlefish deep fried with a little of its own ink. Every small plate had merits in its own right but I think my favourite was the panzanella, a simple salad made with stale bread, rich with that sharp vinegary tang. Oh, and look out for the burrata, an incredibly soft and creamy mozzarella, and well worth a try.

After the rapid demise of the contents of the small plates, and after a short wait, our mains touched down on our table. My sister had opted for the paccheri with nduja (a smoky Italian sausage) and burrata, whilst our other dining companion had opted for the chicken. However, all eyes were instantly on my main, a tender filet of beef served with girolles on a bed of Swiss chard. The piece of beef was probably the most tender and buttery piece of meat ever to have graced my lips. The outside was perfectly seared with the meat inside a glorious ruby pink. Every bite was silky smooth and combined with the slightly bitter chard and the earthy girolles, I happily munched away quietly, a certified sign of a happy diner.

I had a few nibbles from everyone's plates and the general consensus was very good overall. I ended with some ice cream and sorbet which was made in house but was sadly a little disappointed. The "Malaga" or rum and raisin flavour ice cream was pleasant enough but was way too sweet, and the yoghurt ice cream just wasn't my cup of tea. Raspberry sorbet was again nice enough, but lacked a deep raspberry flavour.

I had read a few comments on Twitter about Tinello before I went which had started to paint a rather lacklustre picture, but I am happy to report that my experience there was rather good. I really enjoyed the variety of "small plates" and at a couple of pounds each, they are extremely good value. My main was one of the best I have tasted all year and it was only the disappointing ice cream that let down my meal. And the best thing about the meal? The cost. For all that we ate, albeit with only one beer under the drinks column, the total came to £75, a mere £25 a head. For the amount of food we ate, I thought this was excellent value. I shall be returning soon.

Tinello - 87 Pimlico Road, London SW1W 8PH

A breath of fresh air in Victoria, Pimlico Fresh

During my two and a half year tenure in a big glass box in Victoria, you would often find me grumbling about the food options. Limited to a stroll around M&S or notching your way towards that elusive free whole chicken at Nandos, you could say I was looking for a bit more. In my search for a decent feed, I have been to Kazan, Giraffe and Cyprus Mangal, all decent eateries in their own right but not really ideal for a quick light lunch. I let out a long sigh and resigned myself to my regular trips to M&S where I would always spend way too much on stuff I didn't really need.

Enter Pimlico Fresh, stage right. A mere couple of months after I left the big glass box, never to return, what do I stumble upon but exactly what I was previously looking for. Located on Wilton Road, a mere stroll from the aforementioned big glass box, Pimlico Fresh is a new(ish) cafe selling good quality fresh food, all simply prepared, letting the ingredients speak for themselves. I walked in and was directed to choose from the menu scrawled (well, written in rather neat handwriting) along the entirety of one of the walls.

I plumped for a coffee (flat white naturallement) and an avocado toast with extra bacon. I sat down and started to read snippets from the newspapers strewn across the tables and a short while later, food arrived. What I got was slices of avocado and tomato salsa on a toasted sourdough base, with a few rashers of delicious bacon thrown on top for good measure. Simple food, but delicious and affordable.

So Pimlico Fresh, a mecca away from the grease merchants and various fast food establishments that seem to have infested Victoria and the surrounding areas. I really wish this had been open during my tenure in the big glass box. There is so much that makes me happy about it. It is uncomplicated, but simple and decent grub. The staff are casual but attentive and the communal tables force the more unsociable amongst us to smile at strangers where we previously may not have. Still not enough to make me move back to Victoria, but a nice distraction when I am in the area.

Pimlico Fresh - 86 Wilton Road, Pimlico SW1V 1DE

Mmmmmm...grilled meat. Cyprus Mangal

One of the more recent topics of discussion in the twitterverse revolved around what smell made you feel hungry. Instigated by a certain Mr Heston Blumenthal himself (no doubt to create some strange edible candle or fashion the smell into a form of cutlery) various suggestions were bandied around. These included the smell of frying onions, freshly baked bread and cooked bacon amongst many others. However, one of the more popular choices appears to be the smell of meat roasting (sorry to all the vegetarians out there, but its true, your missing out).



Fuelled by this debate, I decided to go and find my own grilled meat. I thought about trying "that fire grill" at Kazan but serious budgetary concerns held me back. Instead, on the recommendation of my old mate Gav, I headed for the Cyprus Mangal. Another good place to eat in Victoria, surely not?

And I was right, technically its not in Victoria but more towards Pimlico. I entered an almost empty and pretty tiny restaurant. Initial impressions not great but I felt the reassuring heat off the coals as I headed to my seat and soon, as that familiar smell of grilling meat wafted over, I felt that everything was going to be alright.



I ordered the mixed grill and a side of grilled halloumi (a personal but ultimately unnecessary favourite). Halloumi, was well, halloumi. Nice and salty and came in rather large chunks. Bit disappointed by the level of grilling on two of the three pieces, could have done with a bit more of a char.



The mixed grill comprised of a decent bit of kofte with some cubes of chicken and lamb shish. The kofte, normally my favourite bit of meat from the mangal, was of a very good standard. Speckled with an even char from those searing hot coals, the juiciness of the lamb was sealed in, releasing their flavour only once I took my first bite. The shish were not as good. The chicken and lamb looked more like they had been licked by the coals as opposed to kissed. Personally, I like mine not only kissed by the flames, but held down and involving tongues, real evidence that the coals are hot and working their magic. The bits of lamb were also the tiniest shish I have ever seen and the chicken underseasoned. The salad was strange in that it was lacking in salad leaves. Not totally convinced.

As I left, the place had filled up and was close to bursting point. I had to barge past the poor souls waiting for a table whilst battling the heat emanating from the smouldering charcoal. Overall verdict is not bad. I still prefer my local (FM Mangal in Camberwell) but its not a bad place to fulfill that meat craving.

p.s. Please note, the "Mr Blumenthal" mentioned above was a fraud, but the sentiments are the same. What smell makes you hungry?

Cyprus Mangal, 45 Warwick Way, Pimlico, SW1V 1QS